If you’re not familiar with Georgian Bay, it’s a massive side arm of Lake Huron located entirely within Ontario, Canada. You might think of a bay as a small body of water tucked off to the side of a lake—but Georgian Bay is anything but small. At around 190 km long and 90 km wide, it’s nearly the same size as Lake Ontario. That’s why some argue it deserves recognition as the sixth Great Lake.
Philip Edward Island and the Kayaking Route
My trips to Georgian Bay had long been limited to the Philip Edward Island area, just outside Killarney Provincial Park. You can do a day trip, a multi-day expedition, or spend four or five days circumnavigating the island. This year, I finally had the opportunity to explore a larger section of the bay. My plan was to paddle from Chikanishing Creek, just outside the town of Killarney, to the small town of Britt on the eastern shore – a path that would take me across Philip Edward Island and through the French River Provincial Park. One of the joys of paddling Georgian Bay is the 30,000 islands that offer endless route options and protection from wind and waves. These islands are what make the bay one of the world’s best sea kayaking destinations.
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Day 1 – Delays and a Late Start
A major storm made the 4-hour drive from the Ottawa Valley to Britt a slow one. When I arrived, the shuttle driver from Killarney Outfitters was ready to take me to Chikanishing Creek, about 90 minutes away. But with rain pouring down, I headed to Killarney Outfitters instead to wait out the weather. I love visiting the shop—but I also hate it, because they have an incredible selection of paddling and camping gear, and I always find something I want to buy. Still, I'm happy to support them. They've done so much to support paddling in the region, and they offer services like gear rentals, boat shuttles, and meal planning that make paddling in Killarney Provincial Park and Georgian Bay accessible to countless visitors every year.
After picking up a few “essentials” and waiting out the storm on Killarney Outfitter’s porch, the rain finally slowed at 5:30 PM. I made my way to the boat launch, packed up, and hit the water just after 6 PM. With the summer solstice approaching, I still had light until after 9 PM. The winds were calm, and I made good time toward West Fox Island, a popular campsite off the shore of Philip Edward Island. After setting up camp and enjoying chicken fajitas for dinner, the rain returned just after sunset, and I called it a night.
Day 2 – Kayaking Into New Waters
The morning was clear and calm—perfect paddling conditions. I used the calm conditions to cross the open water in front of Philip Edward Island into waters I had never seen before. My route would take me through a cluster of rocky islands known as The Chickens, which I had always wanted to explore. My goal was to continue around Point Grondine and find a campsite in Horseshoe Bay.
The day began with glassy water as I paddled through the Hawk Islands. But as I continued on my way to The Chickens, the wind had picked up and the water turned choppy. The Chickens provided great shelter from the waves, and they were everything I imagined: a maze of beautiful, smooth islands with narrow channels that could keep a paddler exploring for hours. It was tempting to stop there for the night, but with a storm forecasted for the next day, I pushed on to find a more protected site.
Paddling along the Hawk Islands.
Paddling through ‘The Chickens’.
Day 3 – Beating the Storm
With nasty weather expected after noon, I was up early and on the water by 7:45 AM. Headwinds and choppy water made for tough paddling. Though I could’ve hugged the shoreline and traveled more protected waters, I chose a more direct line through open water. After three exhausting hours, I finally veered inshore to find refuge among the islands.
The islands offered much-needed protection from the wind, but navigating them required close attention. Around noon, I arrived at my planned campsite – and just in time. The rain began, and soon after, thunderstorms rolled through one after the other. I quickly set up my tarp and tent and hunkered down for the rest of the day.
Rough Seas on the morning of Day 3.
Day 4 – Bustards and Glass Calm
One of the highlights of paddling through French River Provincial Park is the opportunity to explore the Bustard Islands, an archipelago located 2 km offshore. The weather had calmed overnight, and I took advantage of the conditions to paddle out and visit the Bustard Islands Lighthouse. I spent the morning exploring the area. From the Bustards, I made a direct crossing to the eastern shore, saving a few kilometers by traveling the open water. It’s not a place you want to be caught if the wind turns, but I made it safely to the Churchill Islands by late afternoon, having paddled about 22 km.
The Bustard Island Lighthouse, which is still active to this day, although it’s now automated.
Weaving through the outer islands of the Bustards.
Camp 4 on Churchill Island
Day 5 – Final Stretch to Britt
Until this point, I’d been traveling mostly east. On Day 5, I turned southeast toward Byng Inlet, and eventually entered the Britt River, reaching my truck at Wright’s Marina. It marked the end of an incredible adventure through one of the best sea kayaking destinations in the world. This was a trip that I had been looking forward to for a number of years, and I had very high expectations for it. It’s fair to say that my expectations were exceeded, as they usually are when I visit Georgian Bay. But what’s really exciting is the fact that there’s so much more Georgian Bay to explore.
Things to Know
Camping
The first part of the trip is on Crown land with no reservations required until you reach French River Provincial Park. There are no designated campsites, but the best spots are marked on paddling maps. Expect to camp on granite, so make sure your tent has guy lines to tie to rocks, because tent pegs won’t work. The majority of sites don’t have pit toilets/ thunderboxes, and so expect to need to dig a cat hole. When doing so, choose a location far from water and camp, and with enough soil so that you can dig a hole between 6”-9” deep.
Through French River Provincial Park, designated campsites require reservations. Once you’re through the Park, you’re back onto Crown land with plenty of good camping options.
Communication
I had better cell service than expected throughout the trip, but it’s not something you can rely on. I carried a satellite communicator for safety and to receive weather forecasts.
Weather
Weather on Georgian Bay changes quickly. I made a habit of checking forecasts twice daily and constantly adjusted my plans based on wind.
Maps
There’s no single map covering the whole route. I used a Philip Edward Island paddling map, a French River Provincial Park map, and a nautical chart from the Canadian Hydrographic Service.
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For paddlers, Georgian Bay is among the greatest destinations in the world. It rewards preparation and patience with some of the most breathtaking scenery on the planet. Out there, every paddle stroke feels like a step back in time, into a wilderness that refuses to be tamed. Watch more paddling adventures by subscribing to Ken Whiting Adventures.
SPECIAL THANKS
Destination Ontario https://www.destinationontario.com
The Seven https://www.northeasternontario.com
Explorer's Edge http://explorersedge.ca
Ontario Creates, Boreal Design Kayaks, NRS, Aqua Bound, Killarney Outfitters
