Some places have a certain magnetic pull to them, and I find myself pulled towards them like a compass needle. The Southern Gulf Islands of British Colombia have this magnetic attraction. It’s an allure you simply cannot resist.
The Salish Sea
Just off the coast of British Colombia is a chain of islands that dot the Salish Sea. When I traveled there this spring, I knew hardly anything about them. And honestly, there’s something wonderful about going to a place without any prior knowledge, or expectations, about what it’s like to travel there.
Often times, life intertwined with the seas means a harsh, embattled way of living, where the winds and the waves are constantly at battle with life ashore. But that’s not the way of things in the Southern Gulf Islands. Yes, life here is tied directly to the sea, but because of the extensive network of islands, these waters are protected, calm, blue, and beautiful.
I first met Jackie and Brian on the dock as they prepared the boat for a trip across to Galiano Island from Mayne Island. Our plan was to e-bike the roads, hike the trails, and eat local (and legendary) food. Together we set off on the first of many small voyages to explore the islands.
E-bike rentals in the Southern Gulf Islands
We rented e-bikes to ride Galiano and, without effort, the bikes cruised up and down the large hills that make good training grounds for cyclists endeavoring to race. Jackie and I rode towards one of the trailheads to hike up to my first overlook. The trails were not long, but they meandered through lush green forests covered in moss and ferns. It was like hiking through a fairytale. Soon we were atop the island, where we took in a stunning view of the Salish Sea, and I began to understand how the islands interconnect.
Das Nest sandwiches
The hilltop on Galiano Island was also where I got my first taste of the unparalleled food that can be found on the islands. Our stomachs grumbling, Jackie pulled out two packages wrapped in brown paper and tied elegantly with strings. Inside were sandwiches prepared by Das Nest. But these were not just sandwiches, these were works of art!
Caramelized asparagus and onions, goat cheese, tomatoes, lettuce, drizzled with balsamic reduction, on perfectly panini pressed sourdough. How in the world was this the best sandwich I’ve ever eaten, four hours after it was made and enduring our journey up the mountain? I may never know what kind dark arts of sandwich-craft were used to make that so devilishly good.
Galiano Conservancy
That was just the first taste of the incredible food we would enjoy on this trip. From there we rode back across Galiano to the Galiano Conservancy. At the conservancy we walked the hillsides where native edible and medicinal plants are cared for and cultivated. It’s illuminating to see how much that natively grows on these islands is not only delicious to eat, but full of medicinal qualities as well. The Conservancy does many things; it’s a place to learn, to get your hands dirty, and it provides fresh crops to the many amazing restaurants on the small island.
Pizza at Pilgrimme Restaurant
Speaking of which, we then rode our bikes back across Galiano Island to Pilgrimme Restaurant. Pilgrimme is a world-class restaurant nestled in deep in the forest. Inside the cozy cabin the atmosphere was warm and inviting. And Jackie and I ate some of the most incredible pizza I’ve ever had.
Crab pots and prawn pots
Keeping on with the culinary adventures, the next day Jackie, Brian and I set out to catch our own dinner before hiking Pender Island. Brian, having lived on the island for many years, knows all the best crab and prawn spots. Prior to our hike, we dropped a crab pot and two prawn pots to the bottom of the sea. After hiking all day, we returned and hauled the pots 200 feet up off the bottom of the sea floor (which – let me tell you – is harder than you’d think!).
The effort was well worth it though, as we hauled up two meal-worthy crabs (two we threw back) and enough spotted prawns for a feast!
Hobbit homes in the woods
The Southern Gulf Islands are full of colorful character who made me feel welcome and at home, including local musician and local guide Chrysta Wallin. First of all, Chrysta lives in a hobbit home. Her hand-built cobb home is practically one with nature. She has no electricity and her roof is made of earth.
Saturna Island Hiking
Jackie, Chrysta, and I were dropped off on the beach at Saturna Island to hike to its highest point. The hike follows narrow goat trails along cliff edges that overlook the Salish Sea. It’s a remarkable trail to the top and hikers are rewarded with a remarkable view.
Sea Kayaking to Cabbage Island
Chrysta is also a sea kayak guide. The biggest adventure of my time on the islands was a sea-kayaking trip out to Cabbage Island, an uninhabited island that offers pristine backcountry camping for those able to arrive on their own.
The currents off Cabbage are notoriously challenging for sea kayaking. And the paddling can be dangerous depending on the tides, so if you’re headed out for a paddle be sure to take someone knowledgeable about the local conditions with you. Luckily for us, we timed the tides well and the day was calm, perfect paddling conditions.
After miles of paddling, Chysta, Jackie and I arrived ashore and set up camp. Turns out, this was Jackie’s first ever overnight camping trip! I couldn’t believe it! Jackie was a little nervous about it all, but with Chrysta to share a tent with, she was well taken care of.
Our evening on the island was pure joy. There’s nothing like being in a remote place with good friends. Throw in a bottle of wine and some delicious food, and we were having a very merry time!
The Southern Gulf Islands are beautiful. The beauty of the landscapes and the sea is all around. But the biggest surprise of my time on the islands was the food. I was constantly eating the most delicious food! There are so many restaurants, per capita, I was surprised. Everyone here takes their food very seriously. As they should.
If you are looking for a place with incredible food and wonderful people, and some breathtakingly epic trails, the Southern Gulf Islands are simply magical.
My favorite backpacking gear list
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Fleece Mid-layer | ALL-PACA Fleece Hoodie
Down Puffy Jacket (lightweight)
