South Dakota might just be one of the most surprising states in the country. Bring up South Dakota and you might think of rolling grasslands and farmland as far as the eye can see, but that does the state little justice. It’s probably not regarded as one of the top adventure destinations. But it should be!
I traveled to South Dakota to film an episode of Epic Trails with a tiny bit of skepticism in my heart. But that just shows how little I know about this gem.
Badlands National Park
First, I traveled into Badlands National Park, which is popular destination with its ease of access from the freeway. I, of course, made a stop in the quirky little town of Wall.
After eating Buffalo Burgers and getting scared by the animatronic T-Rex, I wandered into the Badlands to hike the Notch Trail. The Badlands is a unique national park, not known as much for hiking as it is a drive through time and odd geology. But there is hiking! There are certified, actual trails with a maze of strange features that hikers are welcome to clamber atop as they please.
The Notch Trail is short. And for today, that was a good thing. The skies opened up and a rare downpour drenched me. The rain quickly slid off the hard mud and formed rivulets that gathered steam and cascaded off a normally dry cliff. The peanut butter waterfall was a treat. It also meant the crowds were scared off. Double win.
Hiking the Centennial Trail
The Badlands National Park wasn’t my only reason for visiting South Dakota. I came to hike The Centennial Trail in the Black Hills of South Dakota. The Centennial Trail has incredible pocket of granite spires and pine trees. The trail is rich with surprising beauty. There is so much to explore and do here, and I was attempting to do as much as possible.
Ballon Rides over the Black Hills
With a pre-dawn wakeup I met up with the team at Black Hills Balloons based out of the mountain town of Custer. I had never been in a hot air balloon before, so this was truly an incredible experience. In a vast grassy field covered in morning dew, the crew unpacked the massive, brightly colored balloon, we climbed inside the basket, and the burners belched their fiery breath.
With unexpected speed, the balloon filled rapidly and was lifting off the ground. Before I knew it, we had floated up hundreds of feet. It was such a strange feeling, but truly exhilarating and beautiful. As much as the flight was a delight, a seemingly effortless glide with the wind, the landing provided all the fun.
Our pilot, Don, spotted a field that looked promising for a landing, yet wasn’t a place the company had ever landed in before. We plopped into the grass like newly arrived explorers, bounced once, and then remained firmly on the ground. The farmer who owned the land came out to greet us with a friendly smile. We then celebrated the successful flight with the farmer, his neighbor, and a bottle of champagne—a tradition held since the earliest flights of ballooning.
Rock Climbing the Black Hills of South Dakota
With all the granite around The Black Hills, of course there is spectacular rock climbing. So I met up with Sylvan Rocks Climbing, right next door to Black Hills Balloons in Custer. After gearing up at South Dakota Outdoor Shop our guides lead us through Custer State Park to get on some of the world class rock. This place feels like there should be steady lines of people waiting for the best pitches here, but it’s practically empty.
For the few climbers that have discovered the glory of climbing in The Black Hills, I expect they are, most deservedly, not excited about this place becoming a climbing mecca and prefer the quiet of not being on the popular climbing circuits. Even though I respect their wishes, I must be honest that the climbing is absolutely fantastic and set in some of the most beautiful country you could ask for.
Guides Shankar and Doug helped rig the pitch, a 120-foot classic crack in the area known as, well…Classic Crack. I promptly discovered the glory of the wonderful crack line. An incredible climb for sure but the payoff at the top is sublime—360-degree views of the Black Hills immediately behind Sylvan Lake. Our crew remained atop the pinnacle until sunset and rapped down in the dark (well guided and with headlamps).
Centennial Trail Hiking
And now for the South Dakota adventure main course, Centennial Trail. The Centennial Trail is 111-miles long and winds through the craggy Black Hills.
Created to mark the 100th anniversary of South Dakota, the Centennial Trail passes through a variety of landscapes with sections managed by Bear Butte State Park, Fort Meade Recreation Area (BLM), Black Hills National Forest, Black Elk Wilderness, Custer State Park, and Wind Cave National Park—each with its own unique features and feels. The Black Hills provide just enough elevation to be cool and inviting in the summer and are covered in green grass and pine trees. It’s a wonderful trail that is constantly changing and providing beautiful gems.
The plan was to meet up with Dan Becker, a backpacker who has built an impressive following on his YouTube channel. Together, we’d hike several sections of the 111-mile route. Dan fell in love with backpacking in his thirties and has poured his recent years into it. It’s fun to see his passion for gear and adventure. He is instantly likable and has an amiable way of moving along a trail, ready to share a story or to let the miles pass quietly.
We began at the Norbeck Trailhead, the official beginning (or end) of the Centennial Trail. Within the first 100 yards of hiking the skies opened up and we were under a massive deluge of rain. Welcome to the Black Hills!
We hiked along diverse stretches of trail suited to a variety of difficulties, encountered a buffalo who stormed out of the woods to roll in the grass, and were greeted by a cacophony of prairie dogs singing our welcome.
Hiking Custer State Park
Perhaps the grandest portion of hiking on the sections we explored lies within Custer State Park. Custer State Park was slated to be a national park until The Mount Rushmore State wisely declined.
They preferred to keep their secret gem quiet and so today, despite its popularity, it feels quite private, like you can hike and camp and explore without the swarms of crowds and busses that can be typical at national parks.
Custer State Park is home to an impressive stretch of granite that has chosen to spend its life defying gravity and pointing at the sky. The Cathedral Spires area within might be my favorite. It is a landscape a child would design with a full outpouring of imagination. Impossible looking granite needles are ready to thread the heavens above.
Bridger 55L Backpack
By now, I was becoming one with my new backpack, a beautiful new Bridger 55 liter pack from Mystery Ranch. Slowly, Dan and I make our way further north on the Centennial Trail as it passes alongside Sheridan Lake. After miles of hot hiking, Dan and I sated our thirst by refilling in the azure lake where we spotted some cliffs that looked fitting for a leap. Who are we to resist?
The Black Hills of South Dakota have become one of my favorite adventure destinations. They are inviting and friendly, just like the people, and hold more than a few surprises. Without a doubt, I’ll be back.
Special thanks to Travel South Dakota for helping make this epic adventure a possibility!
All photography courtesy of Byron Banasiak
