I’m leaving the big cities behind and diving deep into a land rich in culture, a place where the outdoors is more than a reason to visit – it’s a way of life. What better way to explore Baie-James in Northern Québec than by kayaking the many pristine lakes and rivers this area is known for?
If you’ve never been been to Québec, I can tell you confidently that it really does have something for everyone—because it has lots of everything. It has big and energetic cities, beautiful little villages, stunning coastline, awesome food, and cool microbreweries. But one thing that it has more than anything else, is pristine wilderness.
As big as the state of California, but with a population of only a few thousand, Eeyou Istchee Baie-James is one of the most untouched and pristine lands in the world. For the outdoors lover, it's a paradise with countless rivers and lakes to explore, and an endless forest that's teeming with life.
Obviously too big to explore in a single trip, we made our way to the Chibougamau Marina on Lake Chibougamau, a beautiful and full-service lodge that was ideally situated as a base for our trip and a great place to unwind from the long drive. The plan for the first day was to launch directly from the marina and explore the lake by kayak. Joining me for the paddle (and to ensure I didn’t get lost) was Audrey Perreault from the local tourism board. Now Audrey really must have drawn the short straw, because not only was she stuck with me for the day, but she's gotta keep up paddling herself and her little one, who was expected in only a few short months. The fact that she joined me is a testament to how the outdoors is more than just a feature of the region–it’s a way of life.
As we paddled down Lake Chibougamau, the sense of remoteness grew and the depth of the wilderness really came into focus. It’s amazing to think about how many opportunities there are for adventure in this area. There are literally thousands of other equally remote and unique rivers and lakes that we could have chosen to paddle–this one just made sense because we were staying at the marina.
Although there is a lot more water to explore on Lake Chibougamau, I was really interested in learning more about local Cree culture, as they represent the largest group of First Nations in Canada. And so I made the short drive to the community of Oujé-Bougoumou, which translated means “the place where people gather.” The Oujé-Bougoumou Cree have a very long history in the region but the village itself is quite new. After having been displaced and relocated repeatedly in the twentieth century due to mining activities, the village was completely rebuilt in the nineties. One of the key developments within the community is the Cree Cultural Institute. This beautiful building is also a museum, archive center, library and cultural center, and a place for both Indigenous and non-Indigenous to learn about the Cree culture. I am so thankful I had the opportunity to visit it.
Excited to see and learn even more about Cree culture, I headed a few miles out of town into the bush to a place called Nuuhchimi Wiinuu Cree Cultural Tours. Here, Ann and David Bosum welcome guests year-round to share their Cree culture. The couple have built a variety of traditional dwellings that showcase how the Cree people have lived for countless years. And which guests may choose to spend the night in for the full effect.
I found David Bosum carving away down by the water. It was cool to see that what he was making a paddle. For me, the paddle is unlike any other piece of paddling gear. It’s your connection between hand and water, and in some cases, the incredible power of Mother Nature. Although the paddles that David makes are designed to be works of art in rather than for everyday paddling, they are definitely symbolic of the importance that paddling and the outdoors have within the Cree culture.
As my time in the Eeyou-Istchee-Baie-James region came to its end, I had to admit that I really didn't know what to expect from this trip. The truth of the matter is that even though the highway that leads here is in great condition, you're still heading off the beaten path. There isn't a ton of information or imagery out there to help set your expectations. In the end, however, that's exactly what made this trip such a treat. It’s like sitting down to watch a movie that you know absolutely nothing about, only to discover that it's one of the best movies you've ever seen.
I love surprises, and I love learning, and this trip provided both with flying colors. I'm very much looking forward to exploring more of this wild and wonderful region.
Special Thanks To:
Aventure Écotourisme Québec | Tourisme Eeyou Istchee Baie-James
