West Virginia is one of the most underrated states. It sits inauspiciously at the center of the most populous region of the US, while simultaneously being isolated and quiet. As an added bonus, winter camping in West Virginia is incredible.
I have never traveled to this part of the US before. So I didn’t really know what to expect. I arrived in the middle of January, supposedly winter. And yet, it was raining. The winter wonderland that I expected had not yet arrived. This was going to be an interesting winter camping experience in West Virginia.
The Canaan Valley
I drove to Canaan Valley, in the north of West Virginia. Canaan Valley is where some of the East Coast’s best skiing can be found. So everyone here was feeling the longing for the temps to drop a few more degrees and have this dreary rain become beautiful, delicious snow.
While the snow eluded me overnight, I decided to drive up to West Virginia’s highest points, Spruce Knob and Bickle Knob. As I drove higher, up from the valley an additional 2,500 feet, the rain had indeed turned to snow overnight. I got out of the car and immediately felt the blast of cold air slap me in the face.
I had no idea that the mountains that John Denver sings about we’re, ahem, actual mountains. Spruce Knob, as it protrudes into the sky, was scraping the wind. The cold blasting the trees left behind amazing frost structures. The ice grew like a beard on anything facing east. Here was my first glimpse of a frosty east coast winter.
Atop Bickle Knob, the rays of sun pierce the clouds with glorious views of the surrounding landscape.
Hiking the Potomac Region
Driving through the Potomac region, the mountains and valleys are dense. You’re either going up or down. There are almost no flat or straight roads to speak of. As I drove through the valley, I saw a dramatic rise of sandstone, like a flapjack pancake stood on its side. These kinds of formations are rare, no matter where you are.
I couldn’t believe there was this dramatic flake of rock sticking high into the sky. It called to me, like any spire or spine of rock does, to go stand atop it. I set out from the trailhead and chugged my way up the trail.
Of course, standing on this knife edge ridge is not recommended for everyone. But for climbers or the vertically daring, it’s one of the most dramatic and beautiful sights. Walking atop the ridge is a mind-bending experience.
Winter Camping in West Virginia
While I had been hoping for a winter backpacking trip that involved snow, I was still keen to explore the vast wilderness area of the region. I met up with Brooke, a ranger for the US Forest service, to go backpacking into the Otter Creek Wilderness. Otter Creek is one of the larger wilderness areas on the east coast. Brooke and I followed the gorgeous namesake, Otter Creek, deeper into the mountains.
The front country disappeared immediately, and it quickly felt like we were remote and isolated. At last we stumbled into camp, just as darkness was setting in. One of our first tasks was to collect firewood. In my mind, a fire would be a necessary way to stave off the cold of the night. Brooke was dubious I could even start a fire in the first place. The recent rain had left everything completely soaked.
I busted out all my fire starting tricks I could muster. Eventually, we “successfully” lit a small fire that needed constant attention and emitted little warmth. This was a humbling experience.
Food is such a big part of winter camping. Good nutrition is always important, but even more so when it’s cold out and the body is fighting for warmth. In the morning I prepared coffee and burritos full of bacon, beans, veggies, and cheese. Excellent fuel to light the fire within.
Skiing in West Virginia
It wouldn’t be a complete trip to Canaan Valley without hitting the slopes. I met up with Don, the head of ski patrol and mountain operations, to get familiar with the mountain. Despite the lackluster snow, we had an amazing time. Despite the recent rain, the manmade snow was in good shape. I was flying down the hills and having a blast.
Exploring the New River Gorge, West Virginia
The New River Gorge is one of West Virginia’s best hot spots. With the recent designation of national park status for the New River Gorge, more people have been discovering a long-held secret. For those who love adventure, this is the place to be. The East Coast’s whitewater rafting and kayaking epicenter also happens to be home to incredible rock climbing, mountain biking, hiking, and just about everything you could ask for; especially winter camping in West Virginia.
With the change in location came a change in weather. A winter storm was making its way across the east, and with it came a blanket of snow. With the prior lack of snow, I had decided to go mountain biking.
So waking up to several inches of snow was a bit of a surprise. But apparently, that was just fine with Phil of Arrowhead Bike Farm, a literal farm and bike shop. Together we set out from the farm to ride some of the extensive trials in the area.
Within a couple minutes we were riding on pristine snow-covered trails in the national park. The forests were quiet and peaceful under the blanket of snow.
The New River Gorge is full of trails and adventures. But it’s also home to a feat of human engineering. The New River Gorge Bridge spans over a mile across the gorge and stands nearly 1,000 feet above the river below.
It’s a beautiful and iconic sight. The trail that Phil and I rode eventually led to a spectacular overlook, a prow of rock that stands directly across from the bridge, one of the best vantage points in the park.
The Waterfalls of West Virginia
West Virginia is for waterfall lovers. There are thousands of waterfalls across the state. As a landscape photographer, I was excited to visit as many as I could. Cathedral falls flowed dramatically down a sinuous chasm.
But my favorite was a visit to Babcock State Park, where an old grist mill still stands. The juxtaposition of the old, stone foundations and aged wood siding along the cascades of a beautiful river in the snow was simply incredible. I couldn’t help but run around excitedly taking as many photos as I could.
The Ace Adventure Resort
The next day, the winter storm had fully cleared. Everything was pristine and beautiful, a winter wonderland. The sun shone bright and cold, a perfect day for an adventure. I headed to Ace Adventure Resort, a literal playground of outdoor activities.
I wanted to test out the renowned zipline course that’s been built on an old converted mine. The course is built atop the edge of the gorge, so the views all along the way are incredible. With no leaves on the trees, the views were unimpeded and spectacular.
While it would take a lifetime to fully appreciate West Virginia and all it’s splendor, I now better understand the charms and charisma. Winter is a wonderful time to explore this place. When the fresh snow falls, it instantly turns into one of the most gorgeous landscapes around. And with hardly any crowds on the trails, it’s a perfect place to let those country roads take you home.
Previous Winter Camping Articles:
– Fresh Gear Friday: Lightweight Backpacking Tent & New Gear
– Winter Backpacking Mistakes
– Fresh Gear Friday: Cold Weather Backpacking Gear
– Fresh Gear Friday: Cold Weather Sleeping Bags and Other Gear
For more year-round backpacking adventures, head on over to BackpackingTV.
Gear used in this review includes:
Backpacks: Bridger 65 backpack, Bridger 35L daypack
Tent: MSR Access 1 4-Season tent
Sleeping Bag: Thermarest Parsec 0 degree
Sleeping Mat: Zenbivy Light Mattress
Camp Food: BeanVivo Three Bean Chili
Jackets: Cotopaxi Cielo Rain Jacket, Cotopaxi Fuego Hoodie
Fleece: Beyond Clothing Dawa Sherpa Fleece
Pants: Fjallraven Keb Trousers, Shadow Insulated Snow Pant
Footwear: Tundra Aerogel Booties by Outdoor Research, SuperAlp GTX by AKU
Camp Stool: Grand Trunk’s Compass 360 Degree Stool
Sunglasses: Wiley X
