Landing in Australia and traveling to the Grampian Mountains
Melbourne is one of Australia's biggest and most vibrant cities. The capital of the southern state of Victoria, it rivals Sydney in many ways. If you are an adventurer looking to do more than take in some grand slam tennis, just outside of Melbourne is an array of mountains that beckon climbers and hikers alike, and a beautiful coastline that's been one of the most important surf destinations in the world.
After a few days enjoying the arcades, restaurants and people of Melbourne, I traveled north to Grampians National Park. Every time I told people I was traveling to the Grampians, their eyes got wide with jealousy. I knew this was a good sign.
The Grampian Mountains
The Grampian Mountains are an ancient sandstone mountain range that shoots up from the perfectly flat surrounding plains, making it one of the more dramatic uplifts. The sandstone here has been chiseled and carved by wind and water for millions of years, leaving behind some remarkably odd formations.
Connecting with local guide for Grampian Peaks Trail
With foresight that people would flock to see these remarkable formations, The Grampian Peaks Walking Company offers a variety of trips based out of Halls Gap. For my journey, I met up with Adrian from Grampian Peaks Walking Company. Our goal was to hike a section of the Grampians Peaks Trail, a 100-mile-long route that recently connected the park from north to south in a continuous thru-trail. It's one of Australia's premiere hiking trails and draws people not only from all over Australia, but all over the world.
I met up with my Grampian Peaks Walking Company guide, Adrian, for a local beer the night before heading out on a three-day trip. It was raining heavily that week, and the forecast did not look promising. Despite the inundation of rain, but with the knowledge of our skilled guide, we decided to stake off anyway. Besides, maybe there would be some great waterfalls?
Start at Mount Zero
The portion of trail we selected begins (or ends) at Mount Zero. From here, we set off to climb Mt Stapylton, one of the high points along the mountain chain. Luckily, the weather held out for most of the afternoon and we were able to make the summit. This area really drove home the strangeness of the Grampian Mountains. There are bewildering formations all over the place.
The summit of Mt Stapylton provides a stunning view south, allowing hikers to visually grasp the mission that lies ahead.
The next day, the rain really set in, a steady, soaking affair. But the trail did pass alongside several waterfalls that are otherwise dry most of the year. It reminded me of my home in the Southwest desert, where monsoon rain brings ephemeral waterfalls. I was enjoying the moody, wet vibes of the mountains here.
The entirety of the trail is typically done in thirteen days and includes a mix of several wild camping options as well as modern, comfortable huts. The huts are wonderful shelters for hikers to take refuge in, especially on nights like this where the weather is less-than ideal.
The modern design nestles into the Grampian Mountains beautifully and provided us with a great spot to enjoy one of Adrian's fancy dinners. The clouds outside obscured what would be a prime sunset-watching spot. Three days on the Grampians Peaks trail was just enough to offer a taste of what the full trail would offer.
The Great Ocean Walk
Something I hope to return to for a longer visit one day, but for now, I was leaving the national park behind to head to the Great Ocean Walk, another long-distance trail that Victoria is famous for.
Years ago I saw a photo in a National Geographic magazine of the Twelve Apostles, a series of golden monoliths with waves crashing all around them. It’s an image that’s stuck in my mind.
Connecting with a local guide for the Great Ocean Walk
I met up with the team at Twelve Apostles Lodge Walk, an outfitter and lodge that offers guided hikes of the coast. Using the lodge as basecamp, Finn and I would hike the Great Ocean Walk, which ends at the Twelve Apostles rock formation.
Finn and I set off through the strange, beautiful coastal ecosystem full of eucalyptus varieties and more. The rain refused to let up. But my joy at being outside exploring did not wane. Especially when coming across koalas in the wild!
Rugged coastline and rising tides
The trail meanders up and down along the rugged coastline.. Some miles are high on the Australian shelf, hundreds of feet above the sea, while others are right down on the beach with waves crashing practically underfoot. One of the spiciest times on trail came when we needed to cross a notorious passage while the tide was coming up. Finn and I were racing to get around a pinch point on the beach before high tide would make the passage too dangerous.
We scrambled around the jutting cliffs, hoping across boulders as the ocean was literally swallowing up our path. Luckily, because of our guides knowledge of the elements, we arrived before it was too late – something all hikers should not take lightly when walking any coastal trail. To further prove this, we soon learned our saga was not over. Due to the recent deluge of rain, a normally casual river crossing became quite the event.
Wet boots, a drying room and foot spa
At this point in the trail, most people could and should take off their boots and wade across the river as it empties into the ocean. However, Finn and I thought it would be funny if he were to piggyback me across the river. As you can imagine, this was not the brightest idea.
Finn carried me through the raging river for only a few feet before his footing gave way and dumped me right in the river. Stumbling into the knee deep river, we regained our balance before going for a complete swim. But my boots were completely swamped with sea water.
With soggy socks, I had the grateful recollection that we were set to stay at the Twelve Apostles Lodge, where they not only offer a drying room for wet clothes (which I desperately needed), but a foot spa with wine and cheese boards (which I also desperately needed). It was a wonderful way to regain my composure for the next leg of the trail.
Setting off in the dark, Finn and I were on a mission to finish the last miles of the trail. We wanted to catch sunrise at the Twelve Apostles, the grand finale of the trail. Mercifully, the sun broke through the clouds and we were provided with a truly stunning sunrise over one of Australia’s most magical landscapes.
It was a fitting end to miles of a wet, difficult, yet wonderfully satisfying journeys.
Great local places to visit, stay and eat
- Visit Melbourne
- Visit Victoria
- Vibe Hotel Melbourne
- Big Esso Restaurant
- Aboriginal Heritage Walk
- Country Plaza Halls Gap
- Paper Scissors Rock
- The Spirit of Punjab
- Timboon Fine Ice Cream
- Timboon Railway Shed Distillery
- 12 Apostles Helicopters
- Best Western Apollo Bay Motel
- The Birdhouse
- Twelve Apostles Lodge Walk
