The Carretera Austral is 1240 kilometers of the most mind-bending terrain on earth. Traversing some of the most incredible terrain in Chilean Patagonia, this roadtrip is one for the ages.
Not all roadtrips are created equal. For example, let’s spin that globe and take a gander down south. At the bottom of South America lies a wind-scoured land of violent geology. It’s known as the end of the world. And it sure feels like it.
Patagonia, an area of land that spans the bottom third of both Chile and Argentina, is legendary. Not only is one the most popular outdoor clothing brands named after it, it’s a pretty cool place on its own. Feared by ancient explorers, sailing routes around Cape Horn were treacherous. Vicious winds around the cape could take down a ship faster than the Kraken. Fast forward a few hundred years, and it still holds that sense of awe and fear in the minds of explorers.
The Carretera Austral, Spanish for the Southern Road, winds through mountains, along coasts, skirting ice fields and glaciers, and transports travelers along a magical land. Back in 2015, I rented a truck in Puerto Varas, Chile to drive the entirety of the Carretera Austral and set out on an adventure I’d never forget.
For those keen on adventure, here’s how to do it.
The Carretera Austral begins in Puerto Mont, a relatively bustling town at the northern edge of Patagonia. Many people use this city as their jump off point as it is easiest to facilitate a vehicle rental or purchase. I rented a vehicle. And while it was convenient, it was absolutely more expensive that way. For those with flexible schedules, buying a vehicle en situ, using it for as long as one desires, and then selling it upon completion, is the much more financially sound decision.
My adventure spanned five weeks. That’s a long time to rent a vehicle and it cost me several thousand dollars. However, it is still to this day one of my best adventures I’ve ever done. I do not miss that money. Buying and selling a vehicle will take some time and is best suited to long term travelers.
This roadtrip has only been made possible in the last twenty years or so. Amazingly the final stretches of the road were only completed in 2000. The land is so incredible, simply building a road here took a herculean effort. And in some places, its still impossible to build a road. Ferries come in to play. There are multiple major ferry crossings along the route where the practicalities of roadbuilding do not match the terrain.
South from Puerto Mont, there’s a short stretch of driving before the first ferry just south of Parque Nacional Alerce Andino. But I may suggest already diverting north to Puerto Varas (where I began) and driving along the shores of Lake Langihue and through La Reserva Nacional Langihue, home of Volcan Cabulco, the volcano that erupted in incredible fashion a few years ago. Following this route will take travelers along a fjord (the same one the ferry crosses if staying on the traditional route). A notable place of interest Valle Cochomo, a beautiful land of granite domes and cliffs that truly resemble Yosemite National Park. For climbers especially, this place must be seen.
A little south of Cochomo, the road rejoins Route 7 and you’re officially back on the Carretera Austral. It’s important for travelers of the Southern Road to be flexible. There are so many fantastic sights along the way, it is wise to have ample time to stop and explore.
For the next few hundred miles, this region within Patagonia remains fairly temperate and can be quite rainy. Bring a rain jacket and be prepared for some major downpours. During my two and a half months in Patagonia, more than one major storm hit that drove me inside for several days at a time. Some were so fierce I thought the building would blow over. Luckily Patagonian architects have anticipated the windy conditions. The buildings remained.
There are so many wonderful places along the roadway, it would be impossible to list them all. This article would never end. But for practical purposes, I’ll list a few more.
Cerro Castillo is one of the more dramatic mountains in an area full of dramatic mountains. As I rounded a bend and first witnessed this mountain, I immediately pulled over to gawk. I then drove around until I found somewhere to stay. Luckily, I stumbled upon a farmhouse that advertised a spare bed. When I drove up, a kind woman in her sixties walked out with a plate of cookies to greet me.
Cerro Castillo, the essence of drama.
I stayed at the base of Cerro Castillo at this farmhouse for a week.
A few hours south Route 7 follows the shores of Lago General Carrera, a very large and beautiful lake. From Puerto Rio Tranquilo, a lovely small village, one can explore La Catedral de Marmol, or the Marble Cathedral. The lake has scoured the marble shoreline into very dramatic and beautiful natural sculptures.
The Carretera Austral approaching Lago General Carrera
Continuing south you’ll saddle alongside Rio Baker, a stunning blue green river that pumps through a gorge which delights kayakers. Soon you’ll come upon a junction with Route X-83, a dirt road that leads you through Parque Nacional Patagonia. This national park was created in part by Doug and Kris Tompkins, whose little business The North Face has achieved modest success. They bought the land to conserve it, and donated it back to Chile to manage as an undeveloped wildlife corridor.
X-83 is important for another reason. It’s a long dirt road that will take you up and over the pass and into Argentina and eventually connecting you with Route 40, Argentina’s famous road south through Patagonia. This road is the southernmost reliable option for crossing into Argentina by land. During the summer months, it’s possible to ferry from Villa O’Higgins across Lago San Martin to Argentina, near the famous El Chalten.
However, in the winter months, this ferry is closed. Travelers who wish to continue south must take X-83 across a very lonesome border crossing and continue on Route 40.
The views from Villa O’Higgins
But don’t miss Villa O’Higgins! It is absolutely worth seeing Route 7 to it’s end at Villa O’Higgins and seeing this most dramatic stretch of Chile.
While the Carretera Austral technically ends in Villa O’Higgins, you are extremely close to one of the most incredible zones on the planet. So let’s extend the adventure just a little further south.
By crossing into Argentina, either using the ferry from Villa O’Higgins or X-83 overland, make your way to El Chalten, home of Fitz Roy and Los Glacieres National Park. Climbers have long come here, drawn by the incredible pointed peaks. But it’s home to wonderful backcountry hiking and camping as well.
Torres Del Paine is the crown jewel of Andes.
Continuing south, cross back into Chile near Puerto Natales and head north to see my favorite place in all of South America, Torres del Paine National Park. This place alone is staggering, and is worth being at the top of anyone’s bucket list. Be sure to hike the “W” circuit, a multi-day trail that is an absolute marvel.
A few notes:
I drove this route in 2015. I am sure there has been some infrastructure development since then. But drivers should be prepared for lonely roads with minimal traffic connecting these small towns all the way down. There are sufficient towns with gas stations, markets, and lodging options. However, being able to camp along the way will really allow you to enjoy the route. There are plenty of camping opportunities in this wild part of the world.
The hardest part was having the right paperwork for crossing the border into Argentina with a rental car. Be sure to get that taken care of in Puerto Mont before departing.
Enjoy the wild ride.
